Stitching around the neckline

May 2012 Meeting

This month we were treated to a really interesting and useful session by April on Cut and Sew techniques. Many of us have not used this technique so April gave us a demonstration of both sewing up a garment on the sewing machine and creating a cut and sew neckline.  Later she showed us how to use a garter bar to turn the work to give a neat finish.

Set up with knitting and sewing machines
Set up with knitting and sewing machines
For cut and sew both machines are needed – a simple sewing machine that does straight stitch and zig-zag is adequate.

Raglan jumper with machined seams
Raglan jumper with machined seams
 This garment was made on the knitting machine in the normal way, then sewn up on the sewing machine. It gives a neat finish.

Tacking around the neckline
Tacking around the neckline
A major use for cut and sew is to make a neckline on the garment front and back that have been knitted as usual but the neckline not shaped on the machine.The garment pieces should be  washed / steamed or pressed according to the type of yarn used, before the neckline is created.Making a neckline on a complex pattern it is easier to cut and sew – no holding position and repositioning the punch card needed here!

First use a paper or cardboard template to mark the position of the neckline, tack around this with large stitches in a contrasting colour.

Stitching around the neckline
Stitching around the neckline
Then machine around twice – once with a large straight stitch, then again on top of that with a narrow zigzag.The neck can then be cut out and a neckband applied using the sewing machine.Before cutting, ensure the stitching has no gaps and cut on the neck side of the stitching to prevent unravelling.

 

 

Seams tacked together using binding wire
Seams tacked together using binding wire
 To tack seams together securely, a binding wire can be used. Bind over the edge like an overcast stitch.

Machining seams together
Machining seams together
 Sewing next to the binding wire needs to be done carefully to avoid breaking the machine needle on the wire.

Lyn Leventhall

Currently - webmaster for Bookham Machine Knitting Club.